Everything You Need to Know About Winterizing Your RV

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The cold weather has arrived. If you’re living in your RV, this means you should either head south or take some extra steps to protect the water system and keep the interior of your rig warm. We almost always choose the former, but this year is different for us. If you’re like us and will be storing your rig for all or part of the winter season, you will need to winterize.

Not sure how to go about winterizing your RV? You’ve come to the right place!

Assemble Your Gear

First, you’ll need to gather your supplies. I like having everything close at hand because it ensures the winterization process goes as smoothly as possible. This allows me to finish up quickly and move on to the things I’d rather be doing.

You’ll need:

• 2–3 gallons of RV-safe antifreeze (the pink, non-toxic kind)
• Water heater bypass kit (many RVs have one pre-installed)
• Water pump converter kit (also factory installed on many RVs)
• Sewer hose for tank draining
• Basic hand tools like wrenches and screwdrivers
• Air compressor (optional, if you prefer to blow out lines)
• Moisture absorbers
• Battery maintainer
• RV or tire covers, if storing outdoors
• Wheel chocks and jack pads
• Fuel stabilizer

Clear Out the Water System

Okay, now that all of your supplies are together, it’s time to start the process. The first step? Clearing all of the water out of the system. I learned the hard way just how much damage can occur if any water at all is left in an RV water system during a hard freeze. Don’t be like me.

1. Turn off your water pump and disconnect the freshwater hose.
2. Open all faucets, including hot and cold sides, and flush the toilet several times.
3. Open the low-point drains under the RV to release any remaining water in the plumbing lines.
4. Drain the fresh water tank completely.
5. Empty and rinse both the gray and black tanks at a dump station.

Drain and Bypass the Water Heater

The tanks and water lines might be empty, but there is one more thing you’ll need to empty out before you can move on: the water heater. In addition to cracked water lines, we have experienced a cracked water heater tank. This is no fun and required us to replace the tank completely, so this is not a step you’ll want to skip.

1. Shut off the heater (both electric and propane) and allow it to cool completely.
2. Remove the drain plug or anode rod and let all the water drain out.
3. Flip open the pressure relief valve to speed the process.
4. Activate or install your bypass valve so antifreeze won’t fill the tank later.

Protect the Plumbing with Antifreeze

Now that most water is out of your system, you’ll need to find a way to ensure that residual water can’t cause a problem. There are two common methods for safeguarding your plumbing: using air pressure or pumping antifreeze through the system. Both work, but I much prefer the antifreeze method because it is practically foolproof.

Method A: Pumping Antifreeze

1. Make sure all faucets and drains are closed.
2. Attach your pump converter kit or connect a short hose from the water pump inlet to the jug of antifreeze.
3. Turn on the water pump.
4. Open the faucet farthest from the pump until pink antifreeze flows, then move to the next one. (Don’t forget showers, outside sprayers, and the toilet.)
5. When all fixtures run pink, you’re done circulating the antifreeze.
6. Pour a bit of antifreeze down each drain and into the toilet bowl to protect the P-traps.

Method B: Blowing Out Lines

1. Drain your system thoroughly as above.
2. Connect an air compressor (30–40 PSI max) to the city water inlet using a blow-out plug.
3. Open each faucet and valve one at a time until only air comes through.
4. Finish by adding antifreeze to the sink and shower drains.

Give the Interior a Thorough Clean

Protecting the water system is a super important part of winterizing an RV, but it is far from the only important step. Once the water lines are filled with antifreeze, you’ll want to give the interior of the rig a thorough cleaning. This will help keep things like mold, odors, and pests at bay.

• Empty the fridge and freezer, wipe them dry, and prop the doors open slightly.
• Remove all food items—even sealed snacks can attract mice.
• Wipe counters, stovetop, and cabinets with a mild disinfectant.
• Vacuum carpets and upholstery to remove crumbs.
• Clean the bathroom, paying attention to the shower and toilet seals.
• Leave cabinet doors open to promote airflow.

After everything is clean, leave the windows open a while and allow the interior of the RV to dry completely.

Guard Against Mold, Mildew, and Pests

Sometimes cleaning isn’t enough to keep the mold, mildew, and pests away. Because of this, and because we dealt with mice in one rig a few years back, I like to take a few extra steps to ensure I don’t return to problems:

• Vent covers: Install RV vent covers so you can keep a roof vent cracked open year-round without letting rain or snow in.
• Moisture absorbers: Place moisture absorbers such as DampRid inside the RV to help absorb humidity.
• Rodent deterrents: Seal small openings with steel wool or expanding foam. You can also place repellents in corners and storage bays. (Personally, I prefer peppermint oil.)
• Fabric care: Remove bedding, linens, and clothing or store them in airtight containers.

Tackle the Exterior

The outside of your RV is just as important as the inside. Make sure you head out there and do what you need to do to make it storage-ready.

Wash and Inspect

I like to start by giving the RV a good wash to remove dirt, bird droppings, and road grime. While cleaning, I check for…

• Roof damage like cracked sealant or loose vents.
• Windows and door seals that may need resealing.
• Exterior lights and trim for cracks or corrosion.

I immediately address any issues I find, making sure to replace cracked pieces and reseal anything that needs it. This helps ensure no leaks develop while the RV is left sitting.

Apply Protection

Once the RV is cleaned and well-sealed, I like to wax the entire thing to add a layer of protection from moisture and sunlight. I also use tire covers to help prevent cracking.

Some people like to use fitted RV covers while their rigs sit in storage. We’ve never stored a rig long enough to warrant this, but I imagine it is a good idea if storing for months at a time. Just make sure to use an actual RV cover and not a cheap tarp.

Propane

Your propane system also requires a bit of attention. Thankfully, this part is pretty easy, but that doesn’t make it any less important. Start by shutting off propane at the main valve and covering the regulator with a protective cap. I then like to take the time to check hoses for cracks or leaks so I can repair issues before pulling the rig back out of storage.

Battery Care

Batteries do not like the cold. It causes them to drain quickly and completely, and draining a battery shortens its lifespan. I avoid battery problems by following the steps below.

1. Disconnect the batteries once all systems are off.
2. Clean the terminals with a baking soda solution to remove corrosion.
3. Store batteries indoors in a cool, dry spot. Avoid placing them directly on concrete.
4. Keep them charged using a trickle charger or smart maintainer.

Tires, Suspension, and Chassis Prep

I’ve never experienced it, but from what I understand, tires can develop dry rot or flat spots if left sitting for too long. RV tires are pricey and I definitely don’t want to replace mine any sooner than I have to, so I make sure to inflate my tires to the recommended PSI before storage. I also park the RV on boards to get the tires off the ground. Moving the RV from time to time could also help.

Fuel and Engine Maintenance

Switching from a travel trailer to a motorhome meant we had to think about several extra maintenance tasks, including a few things that needed to be done before winter storage. If you own a motorhome, make sure to add the following tasks to your to-do list:

• Add a fuel stabilizer to the generator and motorhome fuel tanks.
• Run the engine and generator for several minutes to circulate the stabilizer.
• Change the oil and filters on both the motorhome and generator—fresh oil prevents internal corrosion.
• Check coolant levels and ensure your antifreeze is rated for subfreezing temperatures.

There you have it: everything you need to know to effectively winterize your RV. Generally, I can get all of this done in a single day, and it is definitely worth my time. Winterizing allows me to rest easy, knowing my RV will be ready to hit the road again as soon as I’m ready to dewinterize and resume my adventures.

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