What state are you in? I know in Utah the online booking is closed, however most state parks allow you to drive up and won’t close until first snow fall
Thank you. I’ve been telling my S’O’ that we should do the same, only to be told I’m ridiculous. I now have a picture of someone having done it, and it isn’t so bad. Thank you.
My wife and I currently have a 2013 Winnebago Minnie 1801fb and really enjoy spending time camping (mainly boondock ing) in it. I just bought a full Victron setup and 800ah batteries and now I feel like I need to upgrade to a nicer trailer. My trailer is paid off and I don’t necessarily want to enter a new loan. Should I just be content or…?
2017 Prime Time Air 215. It has the extreme thermal package and the underbelly is enclosed. The online manual is more than useless and I can’t find a printed one anywhere.
Does this mean there are heat pads on the tanks or just its heated with the underbelly vent? There is not a heater tank button but know they could have their own thermostat.
That would typically mean both. The underbelly is enclosed and heated, plus there are heating pads on the tanks. There’s no specification defining marketing speak though, so if you’re unsure you could contact the company and ask.
I have a 2019 Grand Design Reflection 28BH with artic package.
Heated and enclosed underbelly, tank heaters.the tank heaters are thermostat controlled to turn on at set temp.. mine have no switch.
Enclosed underbelly is chloroplast material covering the underside completely.Heating it coming from a couple of furnace vents, so you’ll need to run furnace to heat the cabin as well as underbelly.
I can’t imagine they would install the pads without an on/off switch. The pads are meant for when you are travelling with the furnace off and are normally off when parked. They are a 12v draw and you’d want to be able to control that draw for battery management.
Been looking for a 5th wheel toy hauler around the 50k price point. Found one 8 hours away. Ask the salesman for videos / photos of the roof and undercarriage. This looks bad. Thoughts?
I had the same issue on a trailer I bought during COVID. The issue was that they didn’t clean off the roof after drilling the holes. Ended up finding a bunch more issues through the trailer. Sold the trailer back to the dealership after 6 months at a $10k loss just to get rid of it.
Is this a new or used unit? I have about 16 years in the rv industry. From the picture, it looks like they pulled up the rubber roof and re-glued it. Hard to say for sure without seeing in person or better pictures, but for me yes this is a big problem. A roof replace is like 10 grand on the low end
Looks like grand design didn’t sweep debris off the roof during construction. This is a pretty common problem with rubber roofed RV’s. I’d personally pass on this unit because they debris will eventually tear through the roof rubber.
That is a rotten Roof. I started a Flexarmor location…Get a good deal on the camper because the roof needs replacement, take it a Flexarmor location and put a lifetime roof on it.
Downsizing to a Casita, Scamp, or Escape is my 15 year plan, when it’s just me and the wife again. They seem so much higher quality and easier to tow with a modest vehicle.
Are you still using 10th or locking out? I started locking out of 10th and my fuel economy gained right at 1-mpg when towing my 43-ft Cedar Creek at 68-72 mph in 9th gear
10MPG guy here too. Spent 5 nights on the road back and forth last month. $400 in gas and camped at the most beautiful spots up and down the Eastern Sierras. We were shoreside on a beautiful lake one of those nights with an uninterrupted view of those majestic mountains. There’s nothing like it.
I have a forest river 23LT work & play toy hauler. Tow vehicle is a gas RAM 2500. Fully loaded with my harley inside I averaged 11.5mpg. This was the average of a 6,000 mile trip. In the average mpg, there was approximately 25% driving without the tow vehicle for sightseeing when not using the motorcycle. Pretty happy with the end result. Note that I closely monitor the ongoing mpg and keep my speed under 60. Takes longer but good on safety, tires and mpg. Not in a hurry.
Hello guys,
sorry if this is the wrong sub, I really don't know where else to go.
Our caravan was stolen from our private property in Southern Germany. We're absolutely devastated.
It would mean the world to us if you could share this post and the picture that goes with it in other groups and maybe, just maybe take the time to look out for this kind of model on camping grounds etc. The police doesn't believe we will ever see it again, but we would still like to try. If only to bring these criminals to justice.
Thank you very much for taking the time to read and possibly share.
We believe the thieves might have gone the south route so they might well be in France or maybe even Spain already.
We live about an hour from Watkins Glen. Go there several times a year. We have stayed at the state park, great sites, when we have had the kids. The last few trips last year and one last month were 1 night quick getaways to Finger Lakes RV Resort which is on the east side of the lake, about 10-15 minute drive North of the town.
Great spots, nice facilities, and it is basically attached to two wineries that you can walk to (less than 5 minutes on a designated path) and if staying on site you get specials at each winery. Bonus is both allow dogs so we take our pup and she gets to sit and eat/relax with us as well.
From this angle the front of your trailer looks higher than the back. This can lead to dangerous sway. If this is the case you should lower the ball some
Front end looks like an RV but it definitely got kinda… “custom” behind that. The door, furnace vent and roof vent are RV parts but I’m guessing someone said, “Ah Millie, I ain’t spending 100k on no damn RV when I can build one myself outta those scrap parts I got layin’ in the yard” And then he did.
I got it one piece at a time and it didn’t cost me a dime
You’ll know it’s me when I come through your town
I’m gonna ride around in style, I’m gonna drive everybody wild
‘Cause I’ll have the only one there is around
Looks great! What did you have before, or did you take the plunge straight to a massive 42′ trailer? Did it actually come with pet bowls as shown on the floor plan?
Beautiful rig. Many happy miles to you! I’ve heard so many good things about Brinkley – how they’re made, the workmanship and products used in the building of them. Plus, they have some really cool features that as we get older, we’d definitely appreciate. We have a 5er right now that we are very happy with, Keystone Astoria. But, the end goal is either a Redwood 4001LK or a Brinkley (the one with the outdoor kitchen on the patio). The 4001LK has a half bath a ton of counter space in the kitchen – I bake (a lot), hubby is a chef (literally). I think, if by the time we’re ready, Brinkley adds a half bath, the patio w/kitchen would be our pick.
Interesting. Wife and I looked at them to possibly be a future replacement for ours. Not that impressed, especially for the price. Hope it has longevity.
I feel dumb but couldn’t find anything via Google. How do I secure this style of hitch so that someone can’t just pull the pins out and easily take it away. I guess they would still have the ball attached because I have that locked but I feel like I’m missing something…
But, be careful: you want the bolts not to have the threads in the gap between the parts. Add washers under the head of the bolt/nut as required to achieve this. Use a bevel washer as the last washer under the nut and use a self locking nut.
Outside of welding the entire assembly to itself and to your vehicle, nothing will prevent a determined person from stealing your hitch out of the receiver.
If welding isn’t an option, simply remove the hitch from the receiver and store it in your vehicle. Otherwise, look into Locking Hitch Pins.
And these are like $50 at harbor freight. IMO, there’s no real big risk to simply leaving it as-is.
If you don’t want to buy a locking pin, a judiciously applied blob of JB Weld would make removing the pins a major pain in the ass (for you as well as thieves, unfortunately).
Its for gas struts. They put them on all doors for some manufacturing. If you have slam latches, they don’t use them as the slam part wouldn’t happen, and they hold the door open. You should have magnetic blocks to hold the door open.
I've never owned, operated or stayed in an RV but my girlfriend's mom just bought a 2014 Winnebago trend 23B and without any prior knowledge we are taking it to a campsite tomorrow night.
Can any provide any pointers , tips or advice?
Is the generator gas? It doesn't say in the owners manual. We won't be hooked up to electricity so I'm wondering if I can use the power in this thing?
Based on the photo it looks like you have an absorption fridge. Run it on gas if you do not have power. I do not know if it is a 2-way or 3-way. If it is a 3-way do not run it on 12V unless you are driving as it will deplete the battery in no time.
Can’t say what type of fuel the generator will run on. It might be gasoline or it might be propane and it is possible it is dual fuel. You need to lookup the model number and see. You will need to learn how to get it running in-order to charge the house batteries if they run low during your outing.
You also need to know the type of battery as that determines how much you can drain them before needing to recharge and avoid battery damage.
I woke up this morning to a double whammy in my recentlt full-time RV. The AC capacitor went bad, and the fan motor burnt out while sleeping because I foolishly left it on. I awoke to the burring noise of a locked motor, and when going to the bathroom after turning it off, discovered a soaking we carpet. Attached is where it is leaking, I placed a new O-ring inside but the leak continues. It seems to be coming out of the bottom part. Any advice? Do I need to replace the entire plastic bolt/endpiece assembly? I've never worked on plumbing before recently, and just replaced the Wax seal underneath wirh a Korky wax-free thinking it was the wax getting warm overnight.
The pic isn’t the best, but if it’s similar to my aqua magic I had a leak there shortly after we bought the trailer. The fitting just wasn’t tight.
I had to replace the valve assembly this year but that was leaking from the top of the valve. Its possible it may be leaking from somewhere else in the valve and not at the fitting itself.
Mine was very easy to replace as the toilet is about 4 inches from the wall. The YouTube videos I watched they had to remove the toilet so ymmv.
Otherwise the fitting itself may be cracked and that would need replaced. Looks like you have a hose going to it? Mine was pex so that might be more difficult depending on what you have there.
I ended up putting a tee in at the pex behind the toilet and added a handheld bidet.
Greetings people!!
Been looking for a lil'pup trailer for about a year now and finally came up on one without even looking for it this time.. Owners just wanted me to haul it away..
It needs a bit of work (new tires, fix the brake lights, and a little patch up)
Anybody know a place in the OC or SGV area (California ) to patch this old beauty up . I don't mind spending a little bit and getting it looking new…
Upgraded to a 2500HD Duramax Silverado (max tow) last month in preparation for the delivery of our 25' Reflections. Grew up RV'ing, we are very excited for our family of 5 to have new adventures and make some great memories!
Thanks all! Let me clear any confusion, I was not worried about the truck being enough for the rig. I’m not sure how others spend money on a truck, but I wasnt doing it without researching it’ll tow more than what I need for this 5er, and with headroom for something a little bigger in the future, if needed. It’s not a coincidence we opted for the duramax and 3500 max tow package.
Anyway, thanks for the support. Just wanted to share our excitement with the RV community. Happy camping!
My wife and I have November 2nd through the 9th off from work and we are looking to take the camper out for the week. We live in Central Texas and want to get away, but not so far that we spend half of the trip driving. Does anyone have any suggestions for spots with full hookups, nice views, and not a two day drive from central Texas? If we can stay in the state great but open to bordering states. TIA
I noticed that these 2 thin tubes frost up within 1 minutes of turning on. On the inside (lower unit) the part that resembles a radiator I was told should be is not. I replaced the Freezer Sensor to see if that might work. Please help me. I’m aware that it is a closed unit and can’t be repaired. I don’t see why it would be bad with barely any use. No blockage either. Thanks team
I bought a 2024 TT, neither of the GE acs worked. I had both of them replaced under warranty. The brand name GE isn’t what it used to be. They’re stamping the name on crap
Half tons and compact trucks are pretty capable. It’s just that the numbers confuse a lot of folks, and RVs chew up payload like crazy compared to other trailer setups. The dealers aren’t helping the situation either. Math is hard!!
There is a significant difference between the standard trucks and HD trucks. Same as the difference between having weight distribution hitch and not. I’ve driven ¼ton, ½ton, ¾ton, 1ton and whatever a f450 is. The smaller the truck the less overall control you have. Goes without saying, you lose braking power and payload. Currently I’m driving a ¾ton and it does a hell of a job towing my little fibreglass trailer, but I’m likely to downgrade my truck to a ½ or ¼ ton. A lot of the benefits that are found in the modern HD’s are not going to make a difference for the average user. The upgrades to the new ½ tons are pushing the tow capacity up to the ¾ ton range and negating their purpose. Yes the HD’s are better, but not necessarily more useful to a weekend warrior.
You can say what you want, and study the payload/tow ratings all day long, but if you’ve ever had opportunity to tow with both a 1/2 ton vs a 3/4 or 1-ton class, you’d find that even at just 6000 pounds of trailer the 3/4 ton will be a much more comfortable and confident experience. There are a lot of differences between these trucks that aren’t really shown in sales brochures. 1/2 ton uses p-rated tires, 3/4 ton is LT tires, 1/2 is a semi-float rear end, 3/4 ton is a full float, 1/2 has solid boxed frames, 3/4 ton is c-channel. 3/4 ton have much larger brakes, much larger transmissions, stronger steering components, etc. The list goes on and on. I get it that you can make a 1/2 tow 12,000 pounds, but it’s not a recipe for vehicle longevity or safety, driver fatigue, etc.
But, if you’re not towing very often, it may not be worth the cost. Only you can decide.
We went camping for the first time ever and our cat loved it too. We were very scared she would get out of the trailer. We took her out walking on her leash at night and she went so far I got scared and picked her up and carried her back to the trailer. She didn’t want to go outside in the daytime choosing instead to nap on the bunks and have a peek out the window every now and again. I have a feeling we may just have to buy her a trailer.
We take our 19 year old orange female tabby camping. She would get sick from the drive, but she’s more used to it now. She enjoys all the places and is always curious to look outside and see the different things. We have a leash and a harness for walks and when she’s riding in the truck. I really didn’t think that it would be possible to take her camping, but start easy/slow, and before you know it you’ll be doing 2000 mile trips with a cat!
We picked up a 1972 Boler a few years ago that's had a lot of work done to it.
My question is regarding the power converter (if that's the correct term?). It has two unlabelled switches on it (the black 'buttons' are fuses), but I have no idea what they do. The top switch seems to turn a fan on and the DC Volts drops to around 11.5, the bottom switch seemingly does nothing unless hooked up to a 120v power source, where it then kicks on a fan in high gear.
Switching both on, moves the battery condition needle to the '1' position, with the DC volts needle bumping up to 15 volts.
All the lights hooked up to the battery seem to have power regardless of the switch positions.
I don’t know what the battery condition meter means.
From the rest of your description it sounds like the bottom switch is an on/off switch for the converter — if it’s on then the converter is providing 15V DC charging current from AC.
The top switch sounds like a battery disconnect, but I don’t know why there would be a fan for that. Maybe a DC/DC charger for charging the starter battery, but at that age that would be weird; normally they just have a direct connection between the batteries somewhere. Maybe a master switch for turning off the DC loads driven by those five fuses? But again, don’t know why there would be a fan involved with that…
Hey y'all, wife and I usually camp put out of the back of our SUV or Tent camping but with the addition of a dog & future baby the wife wants a little trailer.
I have always been partial to 14ft/16fy 80s trailers (pic) as I think they are a real bargain and we don't need anything fancy.
To future proof ourselves I want to be able to upgrade the suspension as we do like to do camping on public land (I also wfh so something I can work off grid with would be sick) but these tend to have trails/roads still (big hills but no obstacles really ) in the Canadian foothills/Rockies so something with a bit of ground clearance would be nice.
Can't afford a 40k “over landing” trailer.
Are we out to lunch on this? As anyone else done this already, are there guides already?
I took the same route, I’m a pretty handy guy and we loved the look of the old shastas so I found one that had been moderately restored and modernized and bought it as our first trailer.
I ended up having to partially gut it 3 separate times. I spent way more time working on it than camping in it, and I grew to loathe the thought of taking it out, just wondering what would go wrong next. and it was a small basic one just like you show.
For your situation, I would get a popup. Yeah, they’re kinda disposable, but they’re cheap and will get you out there NOW instead of constantly working on an old trailer.
This will require a MASSIVE amount of work to restore, as a first-time trailer? Unless you have the skills, tools, and space to work on it — find something else.
Have you looked at any molded fiberglass trailers? If maintained, they can last a long time. Boler, Trillium, Casita, Scamp, Bigfoot, Escape, and Oliver ($$), are some of the more popular brands.
There’s a fair number of vintage (70s, 80s, 90s) molded trailers out and about and still in great shape. Water is the biggest enemy of old trailers, and the molded fiberglass ones have a lot less trouble with leaks.
We bought one of these. Great shape. Went to add bunks and found rotten framing and a layer of dried dog food in the ceiling. Stanky. Wouldn’t have noticed if we didn’t pull it apart.
Typically, corrugated siding indicates wood framing and rot and instability. Flat fiber siding indicates aluminum framing – less to rot.
Suggestiom is to look at aluminum framing and seal that shit up once a year.
My first camper was an ‘86 tandem axle fleetwood wilderness Yukon…in 2018.
It’s not for the faint of heart, but restoring it a few years ago made me know exactly what I was looking for in every system across the new RV when I got a 2023 travel trailer.
I would focus on camping in one spot until everything is working well in the camper before you conquer roadworthiness. Most traveling camping trips involve driving away from the store that has all the shit you need, so fix most of it before you’re in BFE.
Just bought our first camper trailer – a used 2023 Ember 191msl. We’re avid campers but have always car camped or tented so this is going to be a HUGE upgrade (our mid 30 year old backs needed this).
We are brand new to all this and would love to hear suggestions on articulating RV hitches. Our unit allows you to swap out the hitch and we understand we won’t be able to camp in the remote places we are used to going with our 4×4 suv, but we’d like to upgrade the hitch to help get more place or at the very least put less wear on our suv.
The mic hitch and hitch-ezy seem very popular but I’m not seeing how the trailer coupling of those could be compatible with our trailer frame…? (Again, completely new to this!)
We have these motion sense lights which I like, but one was installed upside down by the manufacturer and it blasts those sleeping the dinette at night. Wondering how to take cover off to flip it over?
The picture doesn’t provide enough info to say 100%. But I imagine the cover is just held on with clips and behind the cover is a screw or two. Something flat and thin like a putty knife between the wall and the lip and a little pressure it should pop off. Again this an assumption based on the photo and not my fault if I’m wrong and you break it
I removed it. Pried it about a centimeter away from the wall. Then put thumb on motion sensor bulb pushing in while pulling out of plastic housing. It popped off from there and I was able to rotate it.
Reminds me of a rig we saw camping a few years back – it was absolutely beautiful. It looked like a smaller shrunk “mini” semi-rig tow vehicle and had a massive 5th wheel – all custom color coordinated etc. Was stunning – and probably $500,000 worth….I still have RV envy over that one!
Hello, I have a parkit 360 and it’s not powering on. When I plug it into charge the side screen is saying “PUL” and the red screen which normally shows the volts is flashing. When I try to use it, it just makes clicking noises. Anyone have any idea how to fix this? I need to move the trailer in the morning so I don’t have time to take it anywhere to get it fixed nor do I have time for a replacement. Thank you in advance!
I’ve got the ‘i hate pulling out’ one. 🤣 In the 3 trips since installing it I’ve had at least one person slow down to take a picture as we’re driving on the freeway. Best one yet was 3 bikers, 2 built dudes and a biker lady. I see one dude do a double take and immediately wave to the 2nd dude to get him to slow down. They finally back off to see again and they just roll with laughter. The group finally passes and the lady is just shaking her head.
Just got our trailer sensors installed and did our first tow– temps were higher than I expected but I'll admit that I've got absolutely no baseline to compare this to.
TT is about 8k lbs
Tires are inflated to 78psi cold
Ambient temps were 80
This was about 30mins of highway towing
Edit. Our sensors are on the valve stems, not inside the tire. So take my temperatures with a grain of salt as yours will be different then mine.
2 weeks ago coming back from Montana it was 95 and sunny in Idaho. Our tires were reading about 120f. We stopped for fuel and my infrared temp gun measured 125 sidewall, 140 tread, and the asphalt road was about 140.
The thing I think is the most interesting is the tire pressure. At 120f, about 70mph with our load the tires went from 60psi cold to 70psi hot. When I went 75 for a long stretch the tire pressure creeped up to 72. Slowed down, pressure went down too. Then when it was 95f outside the pressure was at 71psi to 72psi while going 70mph. Always fun to watch this stuff on long trip legs.
No idea but seeing as they are all similar I wouldn’t worry about it. I would expect any tire to be at least 100F while going down the road except maybe late at night.
I saw mine go from 65 cold to 77-78 psi last weekend. Driving 60-62 mph on a single axle TT and it was 102 outside. The temperature never goes a few more degrees higher than ambient since the sensors are way out on the valve stem.
My husband and I just bought a Shasta Airflyte remake from the 1960's, but it has no awning. Does anyone know where to find theses? It would be much appreciated! #shastaairflyte #rving #camping
I loved our old Shasta when I was a kid, especially the solid wood panelling inside. The thing I recall though is that it weighed a LOT and our Chrysler with a big 440 engine was working hard to pull it. I dont think Shasta was concerned about weight savings when gas was 50 cents a gallon. Its also probably why you can still find them in solid shape 60 years later!
I don’t know, but I’ve got the same one on my trailer. Your fan blades are all missing. In all likelihood it is easier to replace the entire unit — which would be a royal pain with all the sealant.
Small drip from this fitting, just has a gasket in it and I guess it’s supposed to tighten up to ptrap but if you don’t get it extremely tight it has a small drip, seal looks good. Y’all know the part name? I would have to cut it off and glue new one on :/?
You should be able to find a P trap “kit’ at your hardware store. It’s easier to figure out if you have the original though as there are a couple iterations.
Yes, it was a must have in our search. Ours is much larger than pictured.
The only downside to ours, was the pull out griddle that came with it. For starters, it was some knockoff brand and didnt work well at all. In addition, the design is just dumb….if you actually got it hot enough to cook something, it would just splatter grease all over the fridge. We took it out, and bought a stand alone blackstone.
Every time we take the trailer out we use the outdoor kitchen. It keeps traffic in and out of the trailer down since it has a small refrigerator and sink. So no need to go inside for a drink or to wash your hands.
We also added a bumper mount BBQ to our trailer so it’s on a swing arm and right next to the outdoor kitchen.
My dumb ass thought the sink was stopped up. Fiddled with it for 2 days back at home. There is a rocker switch that’s labeled water pump. Duh, to pump water out of sink as its lower than grey tank. Could’ve labeled it different.
I miss the outdoor kitchen in my old RV, mainly to have access to an outdoor sink. It’s nice cooking outdoors so you don’t get a bunch of grease, etc inside the RV.
What size do I need? According to the model of the trail, I have a 29 foot trailer. Is the 28-30 foot cover enough cover or do I need the 30-33 foot cover?
I get that the answer should be absolutely obvious, but when I purchased a cover for my boat, I needed to get a larger size to fit my boat, I am wondering if trailers are the same.
Looking for a Toyhualer Travel Trailer, with walled off garage area. I know of the Raptor FS30 toyhauler, but they are rather difficult to find, am curious if anyone knows of any other models out there. I'd like to stay away from 5th wheels.
We had a Fury Primetime that had a separate garage, and a much nicer bed set-up. It may still be out there for sale (used) since we just traded it in about a month ago lol. We just don’t have bikes anymore, otherwise it was a really great camper. Had an onboard generator too.
I got this ad and it made me question camper pricing. If someone is able to give essentially 50% off pricing does that mean 10,20,30 percent off “msrp” is still a bad deal? Gives me, “buy today and I’ll get you a regular price instead of the inflated price you’ll get if you don’t act now” FOMO tactic
I’d eventually like to own a camper (2 years from now) but are prices inflated on most of them? And I’m not necessarily asking solely about this dealer but in general for most camper dealers.
I’m in RV marketing and have several independent dealers doing half off sales.
With curtailments, at some point it makes more sense financially to just sell the unit at or below invoice price just to get rid of it and hope you make a little on parts or service.
Right now you see this a lot with new in-stock 2023s. They can’t afford to order 2025s nor have the space for them with an older new unit still sitting around. Manufacturers also offer better incentives on the latest year compared to older ones.
But….from what I’m hearing now may be a good time to buy and ask for steep discount. End of season and RV dealers are sitting on lots of inventory and vacation industry is slowing down with lots of uncertainty for next year.
There’s a Canadian version of them called Campmart. They have these outrageously big deals. MSRP on trailers is heavily inflated so the “deals” look better. Nobody is paying 40k for an 18ft bunkhouse. But that’s what the MSRP is. They sell for 20k, but it looks good to the buyer when they’re “saving” 50%.
What Campmart does is use these outrageous MSRP discounts,. But they don’t show you they’re about to add a bunch of heavily inflated freight and pdi and other costs before you sign.
I went to buy a grand river 19bh
for “$18,999”CAD but then they added $6000 for freight and pdi. So now the price was $24,999 which is MORE than other dealers are selling similar trailers from other brand for. Usually there is $1000-$3000 for freight and pdi. 6k is unheard of. When I questioned it the salesman straight up told me “well that’s not how the world works” as I refused to pay for that amount of freight.
I’m thinking of getting a class c motor home. I would be living in the rv full-time as a digital nomad. I am also a gamer that plays different games. One vr game I play is called vrchat. Which is more like a social game. It’s on steam,quest and other vr headsets, it’s also on android phones as well.
It’s a game that requires downloading speeds https://hello.vrchat.com/
I’m looking into getting a weight distribution hitch with sway control for my 17’ camper. The biggest issue I see is how the tongue of the trailer steps down where most of the hitches I’ve seen will attach. Normally the bottom of the tongue is roughly the same level as the bottom of the hitch on the truck, so I don’t think I can get a WD hitch to be able to hook up correctly. Any ideas?
Problem I see is that double decker tongue and how far back from the hitch it goes and finding wd brackets that will fit over it…
What’s distance from the ball to where it’s stepped down?
I would call the etrailer.com support/sales line. Ask the rep for an email address and send them this pic with some measurements and ask them for advice on what will work.
They have been really Knowledgeable and helpful the time or two I’ve needed them and…
The biggest issue I see is the piss poor not fully welded step up on the frame, and the welding looks a little sparce on the hitch to frame attachment too….
I got a WDH that came with a 33 foot HiLo that I bought. I used it once and never used it again. The camper pulled like a champ. I guess a lot of campers need them but mine didn’t.
Hello – need karma!!! But also need to replace this terribly uncomfortable sofa in Ibex 24MTH, toy hauler. It folds flat (jackknife) so the Murphy bed can come down. Any ideas?
Just bought a used 2011 Shamrock 21 ssl and tried to take it camping yesterday and started swaying hard at 50mph. We had everything loaded up front. We have a sway controller connected. Checked tire pressure. Tried with and without water. Tried 2 vehicles. I’m really bummed because this camper is perfect otherwise. What else can we do? I can’t seem to get enough tongue weight.
Something definitely isn’t right. Every picture I can find of a 21 ssl has a deck for four wheelers or a golf cart. Can you post reply with a picture of the full side of the camper? If someone took a 21ssl and shortened the frame to remove that deck you would have the problem you describe. A 21 without that deck would have the axles farther back in relation to the camper body.
This is crazy. Been in the business a long time and have never seen something like this mod. I’m guessing the dealer didn’t realize. If I brought that in on trade we just would end up unwinding the deal. The only way to “fix” it is some serious axle relocation, not certain there is enough frame to do so. Crazy, keep us posted.
Hello everyone… I recently purchased a 2001 keystone hornet 32r… Took it out this weekend and she says all over the place… I'm told I need a distribution hitch.. Camper weighs around 7600lbs.. Does anyone know if this is what I need or is it overkill..
Go to etrailer.com. They carry a bunch of different ones and you can compare them and talk to a person and they can help you narrow it down. Do you know your tongue weight?
Looks nice. Campfires are prohibited where we are camping and with good reason since it is so dry and hot. We made it into the triple digits this afternoon. Lucky for us, our power has been consistent but some of our party has been having trouble with the electric not keeping their AC running. The kids are about to put on their annual Talent Show.
That horizontal slat looks like it has a perfectly straight break, almost as if it was two boards and only the veneer was holding them together.
Remove the entire cabinet from the wall and replace those slats with pieces of real wood. Feel free to replace the stapled fiberboard shelves with wood and screws, while you’re at it.
Get used to it. Build quality is shit. I basically rebuilt the pantry with 1x2s and screws. Not pretty but nobody sees it but us, and it will not plague me again. When something breaks I fix it better than it was so I won’t have to do it again.
You could Use a piece of 1×2 cut to length and stain as close as you can, glue and screw underneath to support the broken piece. Maybe do this in all cabinets to match and add support
I have the opportunity to use a RV for a trip and want to return it better than I found it. The wood on the interior could use some help. There are some dings and scratches but overall the wood to me looks dry?
Is there a good product that would shine these right up that anyone could recommend?
Maybe Murphy’s Oil Soap might help. I tend to think you’re not going to get them looking much better, if at all, though. I think the main problem is the cheap finish used on these cheap cabinets. The Murphy’s Oil Soap won’t hurt anything, though.
Those seem to be standard PEX fittings and the clamps look to be high quality. My only concern would be that the insert inside the PEX is plastic, and I might prefer brass.
Those look pretty perfect to me. Pex can expand and resist freezing. They look properly connected. I would say that looks better than 99% of the trailers I have seen. Its great to have pex.
Note that while pex is both easy to deal with and resists freezing, everything else doesn’t (water pump, etc) so you still need to properly flush everything.
But pex is awesome and also super easy to work on should you need to add a shutoff (they always skimp on them on rvs), add something, etc.
Those are PEX fitting connected to PEX tube (you are good). You don’t want to see PEX fitting on flexible tubing. The material compresses over time and leaks develop.
Yes, they are avaialable after market too. We had a similar solution on our class C which mounted on the hitch receiver and was very convenient for bicycles and firewood.
Ours (now) is a two point hinge mount like this one on the bumper of our TT. I probably like the idea of it more than the actual rack, which I may or may not ever use since I’m pulling the TT with a pickup, I have plenty of transit space for bicycles and firewood in the truck.
It is bolted around the square RV bumper and mounted close to the attachment to the chassis, in the strongest part available there. So coolers, bicycles… I wouldn’t trust it with too much weight, but it’s good for keeping sand out of the trailer.
What I don’t like (about ours!) is that the manufacturer decided that it’s a great place to mount the spare tire (wheel). Which is fine, but doesn’t have a lot of ground clearance when folded down. Who thought that was a good idea?
I have only towed light-weight trailers with small-engine tow vehicles so my experiences are a bit skewed but I would never add that much weight to the rear of my trailer. I feel like fish-tailing would be inevitable.
I am currently looking for one of these that can hold a 200lb generator. Bumper has a hitch, and is frame mounted, but is recessed under the back of the trailer to make a sleeker look I guess, so finding one is giving me issues.
I may have to use a metal fabricator to fashion one.
Their typical weight limit seems to be 400-500 lbs.
Haha… Omg, I took a picture of the same type of thing today going down the road to show my husband! It’s like a hinged carrier installed on the bumper. Love this for travel if you need a little bit more room.
I got a spare tire there. Would be nice to have but I’m not sure if I could add anything but a bike rack for mine and I’m not even sure I’d be able to do that with a tire mounted.
Which brand of hot water heater do you have? You either need the nylon plug or an anode rod. The manufacture of the hot water tank will define which you need.
To me it looks like you need a nylon plug and not the anode rod.
it’s the winterization drain plug. I think it’s 3/4″ and I think you’ll be surprised how easy it is to find the plug. Get the nylon plug. It expands when wet, and you have to take the plug out at the end of the season anyway.
That looks like the drain plug for your hot water heater. It won’t fill or hold water without it. You can go down to camping world and buy a new one or get one on Amazon.
Thread seems to be a mixture of “it’s a drain plug” or “it’s an anode rod plug” or “it’s both”.
I’m curious why a water heater would *not* have an anode, and what the downsides of adding one would be. Sacrificial metals reduct/prevent interior corrosion, can they be a bad thing?
Hey there! My girlfriend and I frequently go out camping and are getting more into the over-landing scene. With that said, we are thinking about pulling the trigger on a teardrop trailer and renting it out on a platform like outdoorsy or airbnb when we aren't using it. We're aware that doing this will increase wear and tear.
So my question (s) to those of you that have done this – how much wear and tear did you experience when renting out your trailer? How many nights could you expect to rent it out each month? Would you recommend doing this for someone like us that wants to have a teardrop and make a little cash on the side? Is there anything you would recommend we do or stay away from going into this space?
We appreciate any input on this!
This is going to depend heavily on your area.Indiana? Probably not much market. Colorado? Demand could be higher.
Having said that, if you need to rent it out to afford it, you can’t afford it. Personally, I wouldn’t feel like it is my own if it is being dragged around and abused by renters.
You might want to check out the r/OffRoadTrailer subreddit. If you’re curious about overlanding trailers, that’s a good community to bounce ideas/questions off of.
Just got to camping spot for the week and noticed looks and feels like oil or lubricant on my cover in the picture. Got under my vehicle and cannot see any signs of leaks, nor did any temps/alarms go off while driving. These marks were not on there before I left yesterday morning. How tf would this get here if I didn’t leak it out? How if there is a leak is there no signs of it?
What the farts am I missing?
I’m just worried for the return trip, maybe just over sensitive. Going for a long drive today to calm some nerves also. If anyone has some thoughts please help! Thanks!
i mean could be 1000s of different things, Roads are dirty and full of other vehicles fluids. Check your oil level, check your transmission level, check your coolant level, look around front and rear diffs for leaks. If all are within spec you should be fine. You can pull over every hr or so at the start and keep checking levels too, see if more accumulation is on the propane cover.
Had similar on a trailer last year. It was a pinion seal leak on the rear end.
Look under your truck including the driveshaft ends, behind the rear wheels and under the motor/trans. You may not see an obvious drip but wetness where it shouldn’t be.
I would personally move one of the fat cables to the other battery’s post to get a more distributed load across both. The wires are fine if you’re only running 12v devices off of them. If you’re inverting to run 110v devices, you should consider upgrading the wire gauge of the smaller connecting wires. At the end of the day, it’s all math.
You didn’t say what wattage the inverter is and what your anticipated load is. If it’s let’s say like my coffee maker (750w) that’s like 70A of load on the batteries with inverter losses. With your setup you’d see a huge voltage drop across those wires. I like to use equal sized wire to maximize the load the second battery can contribute to
I’ve also found on a lot of these batteries there can be significant voltage drop between a screw post and the main battery terminal. So I use only the main terminal for the heavy load stuff.
I would strongly encourage you to use owners forums where there is a lot more knowledge than this sub. You made some good fixes here but 12V DC is not to be messed with, and you’re going to get more reliable and expertly discussed feedback on owners forums than here in general. There’s plenty of pleasant discussion here but the more technical and hazardous stuff should be discussed on the owners forums for your rig.
They keep honest people honest, which is usually worth it.
In my experience, it is often easier to drill the lock rather than cut the pin, unless you have an angle grinder and do not have a drill with good bits.
I imagine you lost the key but I’ve broken a few keys over the years and now put a drop of oil in my locks now. Also have a little rubber cap to keep the dust out which makes them hard to turn.
I was using a locking pin up until my last trip when despite all my key turning it would not disengage the lock. I ended up pulling really hard and was able to get it off, looking like my locking pin might have been a bit bent but I couldn’t figure out how that would have stopped the lock from releasing the bearings. fortunately I had as spare non locking pin in my truck as I was still out on my trip.
I could have waited until I got home but at that point I really wasn’t sure if the pin was actually locked or not and would come off while driving. and I didn’t want to be driving around with my huge blue ox hitch sticking out of the back.
I spray all those little locks 1-2 times a year w/ a cleaner/ lubricant. The one I use is marketed for bicycles and it reduces friction inside locks so much that the locks feel broken because the key turns so easily.
I use a big rug/mat that’s a woven plastic. I use it as a place to take off my shoes before I go inside that way I don’t have to sweep 10 times a day. It drains sand and water and is easy to sweep off.
I’ll use mine, more of a plastic fabric thing than a cloth rug, on gravel or grass sites. Helps with keeping the dirt down and it’s easier on the feet.
I have a 10×20 outdoor rug that allows water and sand to pass through. It’s really nice that the kids can hang out on it without getting shoes on. As for the inside, we have an entryway rug for you to take your shoes off on, and a runner after that that is nice on feet from the living room area. Both rugs are lightweight and easy to shake out, also I removed all the carpet from our motorhome, and replaced with LVP flooring g that’s easily swept and vacuumed.
I would never use rugs like the ones in your photo outside. I have an 8×10′ plastic “rug” that I use outside under my canopy tent. It’s easy to hose off and dries instantly. Inside my small trailer I have a 3×6′ runner because the linoleum was getting too dinged up. I vacuum that, and take it outside to beat the dirt out periodically. Once a season I’ll hose it down and scrub-brush it on a sunny day.
Outside we use what’s really a plastic woven rug to keep the mud down, and a door mat to wipe feet. Inside is one rag rug to catch the rest of the sand, dirt, stickers and burrs. We bring 2 rag rugs and shake/ swap as needed. The spare one shades the drinks crate.
Hey Peoples! Im trying to decide which used 5th wheeler to buy from the list in the image. All are priced around the $10k mark (and I’m hoping to negotiate a reduced final price). Apart from some of the metrics I have provided they all are pretty summer. Option A & B have the exact same floor plans and Option C is slightly different with the kitchen at the back and more internal storage.
The chosen RV will also undergo some DIY renovations internally before an upcoming multi-month cross country road trip with the wife. We wanted something reliable, shorter and easy to get around to all the national parks. The plan would be to then sell the 5th wheel after the trip and recoup some money (of course we are expecting to loose some money on the resell but want to minimise where we can).
This will be our first fifth wheel so I thought I'd would get some feedback from the internet. What should we be considering when inspecting/choosing? Thank you!!
Ps: Any recommendations on a suitable towing vehicle are also very much appreciated.
I like your use of excel, but after buying a used class B a few years ago I found what matters are not the specs (as long as the layout and capacities are in the range you need) but the condition. 10 or 15 year old units will vary greatly in condition.
Not enough info to tell. What kind of surface is that and what’s underneath it? What year was it made? How is the upper surface attached to the substrate?
A few weeks ago, my wife enjoyed a campground so much that she reserved a site for her & the kids during a time I couldn't get out of work.
So last night, I got tasked with dropping off & setting up the camper for the night (and even cooked some hotdogs while I was at it)… All to go home & work the next two days.
I call BS! Perfect camping weather forecast for the rest of the week. Gotta up my rates haha
Took about a decade of training and practice, but the wife can now load her quad into the fifth wheel, hook it to the truck, and go camping, dump it, and park it back into its storage spot.
I like to do that one the other way around, have the family / other half drive out to meet me a couple of days after I have everything setup (provided I have the extra time off)
I’ve learned that I like doing the setup myself, without distractions even if it means more work.
That’s the dust cover for your axle bearing grease fitting. If you can take the wheel off yourself, you can probably just tap it back on. Its normally just a press fit.
Since that’s the grease cap, there is a decent chance your bearing grease has dirt in it now. I’ll bet the cap itself has crap in it just from bouncing around in the trim ring.
I would pull the rim/tires off, take a close look at the grease. If it’s at all dirty you need to repack the bearings. Personally I would just repack them, way easier and cheaper to do it now than on the side of the road.
Get in the habit of checking your bearings and tires every time you stop. Make sure none of them are hot.
I know it’s overkill, I have my bearings repacked every year. Still cheaper than breaking down.
Use a cutting wheel to cut most the way through old race, then split it in half with cold chisel
Purchase and install all new bearings with new races
You can also purchase a new loaded hub that comes with new bearings and races already installed
Then learn how to do yearly bearing packs as part of your yearly maintenance routine
The picture doesn’t show it, but some axles have bolt on spindles you can replace. If not I would buy an axle kit. Less than $500 on Amazon. Refitting bearings on a messed up isn’t worth it. You’ll be driving down the road with constant worry.
Just unbolt the whole hub assembly. Take to a trailer parts supply place . you could buy the complete assembly for not that much money . Something in the $ 200 range + Greece which you should get the other wheel bearings new seals and repacked with grease. Not a big job if you are at all handy with tools
If the spindle is badly damaged, replace axle.
Replace linings and hubs.
I repair electric brake trailers for a living.
Hopefully, you got stopped before the wheel fell off.
Axle. The bearings, seals, backing plate, shoes and magnet all come as a kit. Complete bolt on. Drum too. If the spindle threads are damaged, do you feel safe with it going down the road like that? Even with a cotter pin?
We use Six Robless for our stuff. A lot of the axles are made as needed since Covid.
Zooming in the threads don’t look that bad at all. I’d chase with a die. Then tap the race off. Spray it all down with brake cleaner. Then put a new loaded hub on. Then fill the hub with grease through he easy line fitting in the end of the axle.
I have to ask, how long did it take you to get comfortable driving w that setup? I’ll be perfectly honest and say I’m slightly intimidated thinking about driving that.
Click bait, no way no how, paid to deliver and set up. No fing way. Does that car have the power? Yes. Tranny? No, brakes, no. Hitch compatibility, f no, suspension, F No lier lier pants on fire, super dangerous and illegal
Even if it’s a little off the beaten path, do you have a favorite campground nearby this route. I’m going the first weekend of October. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Both of your routes are going to have a lot of two lane roads. Even though it is a longer mileage wise I would probably take an I-95 to I-40 to US-64 route. It will take less time than your dark blue route and will only be 15 minutes more than your route through Fayetteville. All of the roads once you are on I-95 will be multi-lane until you turn left or right from US-64 to access Jordan Lake’s campgrounds.
Any more pictures of your setup? It’s so much different than what we have, the awning cover looks very cool. And I bet people would freak out about the size of tow vehicle you have as well. I love it.
I'm interested in getting this old RV for short trips into the nearby forest roads on weekends with my family. The camp spots I am interested in are close so I won't be too worried about the bad gas milage. It looks good inside. When I came for a test drive the steering was a little sloppy and the generator did not start. So I think I'll ask for $2k off the asking price to get those fixed.
One downside is that I'd be buckling child seats into the side facing sofa. But only on low speed rural back roads.
Decent price for a class C in good condition. 120K miles over a 24 year period is far from excessive. A steering stabilizer will cost you about a grand, installed. I’d go for it.
The fit and finishes on this old girl are light-years better than modern class c/b motorhomes. For example, you have solid wood cabinetry, not laminate over particleboard. The only thing I would be concerned about is the occasional tendency of pre-2002 V-10s to pop spark plugs out! Apparently the threads are too short in the cylinder head. Strangely, it is a simple fix. Beyond that, the V-10 is a beast that could easily take you,another 120K miles.
A Roadmaster Reflex steering stabilizer is about $400 from etrailer and takes less than an hour to install. I installed one on my 2004.
Thats quite a few miles for an RV, but thats not necessarily a bad thing. They tend to do worse when they just sit and everything dries out or rots due to roof leaks. I dont see any obvious leaks in the video so thats good.
I had a very similar layout and type but it was a 25′. The nice advantage of them is that you can still drive them into any parking lot and use any double length parking stall without much hassle, so picking up groceries and such is quite easy. Also small and easy enough to drive that the wife didnt mind doing some of that.
If there are only 2 adults and a child Id do it. Its a bit small for any more than that as you’ll be tripping over each other trying to pass in the narrow aisle but for weekend trips to the woods it looks like a good unit.
Not sure why the generator is listed as newer but wouldn’t start. Hmm. Hopefully nothing major.
The lack of leveling jacks could be annoying. Sometimes you want to level but often its just nice to have the unit stable, especially in a wind storm when it starts rocking.
The walkaround bed isn’t really a walkaround. Not sure why they put it sideways but you wont normally want to squeeze into that tiny aisle at the base of the bed with the wall that close. Its more of a “jump over your partner” bed. But its camping, so thats not necessarily a bad thing either 🙂
Just outside of Asheville there is a road that leads up to the Blue Ridge Parkway called Pisgah Hwy. Check out Sliding Rock(a natural slide you can slide down) , Looking glass Falls, and a ton of trails are on that road.
The Blue Ridge Parkway is amazing also. I go there all the time and I can still spend days exploring it every time.
Showalter’s Orchard in Timberville, VA is close to your route, and it’s peach season if you’re into picking your own fruit. They have apples as well. We stayed there with Harvest Hosts and it was a beautiful spot up in the mountains, and really good hard cider.
Sandstone Falls at NRGNP it’s not to far off 64, give yourself about an hour to explore the area, make sure to get off the boardwalk to get the best views of the falls.
Stop in Abingdon/Damascus and check out the Virginia Creeper trail. You rent bikes in town and they take you to the top of the trail head and you just coast back downhill to where you rented the bikes from. Very easy cruise on a paved trail through the mountains and farmland it really is beautiful and worth the trip. 2.5-3 hrs
My daughter had a pineapple shaped plastic drink cup thing from a slushie place and my wife told her to put it outside on the picnic table, not inside the camper. I said, “you sure you want a pineapple outside the camper??” – she immediately called out to my daughter to bring it inside now! ????????
I've got water and power but getting the run around on putting a permanent sewer system at my property in time for this years hunt. I've discovered that these portable tanks exist that sit under you trailer. A 400gal one will more than handle my black tank deposits for the season. Anyone have experience using one? Pros and cons?
Make sure you put a valve on the discharge before you start filling it. Don’t want to unscrew that cap and try to attach a hose when it’s full. As long as you can empty it, should work fine. If it freezes in your area you probably want to insulate it. Cover it with old blankets would help.
Be aware some counties require permits and inspections for these. They are most often used at building sites for crew facilities. The fines for non-compliance can be severe.
There’s quite a few where we have our seasonal parked. If they’re installed correctly they work like a champ. Incorrectly and you have my dipshit neighbor who tries to make his shit go uphill.
Sounds like your use case would do well. Just call a septic pumper to suck it out every so often.
Edit: these are intended to be buried part ways underground beneath the camper.
you need to run the vent way up so the smell doesn’t surround your rig
once it’s full, you’re relying on a poo pump truck to empty it, no good back up plan
you’ll have to heat it in the winter
it’s gonna smell terrible regardless
What we ended up doing:
piped a line about 30’ away to assist with grey dump to ground.
held black for about a week then dumped to a transfer tank, picked the tank up with the tractor and took it to our septic field and dumped it. (I understand that may not be an option but you might have a neighbor or something).
What type of land are we talking about here? Is there an outhouse? We have 10 acres of land we leave our unit on (put in a septic tank, though), but one of our neighbours just hauls to his outhouse with one of the usual wheeled tanks to dump the black tanks.
Oh I want this for our Jeep. We have this fabulous, built to play, but still pretty Jeep being towed behind our old class C. It definitely looks like it’s stuck pushing the old thing up the hill
I have looked at this campground a few times over the years since we have family in the area, hoping they change this policy. I have never hear of a place that doesn't allow slide-outs. The majority of modern campers and RVs I see today have some form of bump-out.
There are so many guesses here, all unfounded. If somebody asks a question looking for information, don’t give them false info. Here’s the real story:
For years, the the spots in this RV park have been individually owned. There is a separate company that owns the rental rights. Owners can stay there with any RV they want. In the past, the rental company allowed any RV to come in. The owners and the rental company split the fee, everyone was happy, guests loved the place.
Then a new owner got the rental rights, and he is a fucking crazy person. He immediately started enforcing an obscure clause in a decades old document to prevent any modern RV from renting there. The owners voted to change the obscure clause, and this guy refused to acknowledge it (claiming it was an illegal vote???) and instead launched three law suits against the owners for all sorts of random bullshit, including the right for them to stay on their own lot, or even the right to use the common road to get to their lot — even though courts have said that staying their full time is allowed and the right of way is clearly a right of way. So Idiot posted an armed guard to stop residents from coming in. (Fortunately the county made that stop).
So now, this idiot is driving away all the business. Sometimes, he’ll accept the reservation and then belligerently tell them to go away when they show up, leaving them with nowhere to go. It is a scorched earth policy.
So what is his game? It goes pretty deep, but basically he’s got friends on the county board, and he is trying to shut down the RV park so he can turn it into a parking lot for his other businesses. His friends on the county board have been helping. He was recently awarded a ferry contract to take passengers to Dafuskie Island, and has totally screwed the pooch on that, too. The boats are not seaworthy, not Coast Guard approved, he can’t handle disabled passengers, the boarding process is not safe, and people have fallen into the water. Google “Dafuskie Ferry Contract Controversy”, dig as deep as you want.
The owners of the RV park want your business. They want the old system back. But this asshole is trying to destroy it for his personal gain. There is also a luxury resort in the picture, but that gets more complicated.
Anyway, there are multiple lawsuits back and forth. The owners are slowly winning, but it has been three years and the reputation of this beautiful resort is ruined. It is truly one of the best RV resorts in the country, and I’ve been to hundreds. But right now, nobody can come there because an immoral asshole is ruining it.
I hope the resort can be restored to its former glory in a few years. The tide is turning against the idiot who is destroying it, but unfortunately it may take a while to get back up to its former self.
Plenty of photos show RVs with slide-outs, but a quick read of their Google reviews kinda show that there was some sort of ownership change 2021-2022 and this new policy is now in place.
It’s Hilton Head – one of the most popular and most pretentious beach destinations in the SE United States. They likely fill up their campground even with these restrictions.
Sounds to me like they’re trying to engineer a way to have only airstreams and motorhomes. The guidance doesn’t say anything about slides on a MH. Just trailers.
My 10 years old panel buttons are not working as they used to. The levels seem to depend on the amount on pressure I put on the buttons. Interestingly, I took the panel off and tried shorting the buttons contacts on the board with a flat screwdriver and it doesn’t seem to make a difference – though the board may be covered with some dielectric conformal coating for protection and to prevent moisture from getting in. Also not sure if the issue is somewhere in the wiring instead.
Is this a known issue? Should I try to resolder new buttons using my resolder station on the panel board or replace the whole thing?
Time to get real about marshmallow preferences – do you like yours lightly kissed by the sun or a full-on charcoal briquette? Personally, I'm a fan of the golden-brown-to-almost-but-not-quite-on-fire range, roughly a 4-6 on the toastiness scale.
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